Short History
This is a short travel guide to whomever wants to spend a few days in Lebanon.
Lebanon is a Mediterranean country in the Middle East. It has Israel bordering from south, Syria from North, and East and the Mediterranean Sea from the west. The island of Cyprus is a close neighbor on the West, across the Mediterranean Sea.
The Coastal city of Beirut is the Capital of Lebanon. Tripoli, Baalbak, Sayda, Zahle, and Byblos are some of the major and very ancient cities in this relatively new country. Lebanon celebrates Independence Day on November 22nd which is really the day when French recognized Lebanon as a country in 1943 after 23 years of Mandate rule after WWI. Today Lebanon is officially known as “Republic of Lebanon” or as locally called “Lubnan”.
Beirut (Capital of Lebanon)
Beirut is a very ancient city, having continuously lived since 3000 BC. Beirut has the international Airport (Rafic AL Hariri Airport), and Lebanon’s biggest port (which was destroyed in an explosion last year and planned to be rebuilt with effort and donations of many countries). Beirut port was the main port for goods to arrive in Lebanon, Syria, and Iraq and indeed to many other countries. But due to the civil war in Lebanon (1975 – 1990) there was a major effect on Lebanon as a logistical hub, which caused other hubs to substitute the Beirut port.
Beirut is famous for its Corniche “the seaside promenade in the Beirut central district along Paris Road”, it also has a beach that can be accessed from some of the development on the other side which has tunnels under the corniche (i.e. the beach of AUB, American University of Beirut, or some of the hotels, and residential luxurious buildings).
On the Corniche there is a big rock near the shore, locally known as “Al Sakhra”, which simply means (The Rock), it is a beautiful natural feature, also a place for people to show their rock climbing and diving capabilities, but i think these days it someone has to have a licence to climb al sakhra and dive form its top.
Beirut is also famous for its Zaitunay bay and St. George Yacht club next to it. St. George is an exclusive club, but Zaituna bay is a public place where yachts are docked and there are many beautiful restaurants and cafes open to the sea and the yacht docks.
On the corniche there is a big prominent for people to walk, and jog and walk their pets, and some nice breakfast, lunch or dinner restaurants and cafes. Some of these cafes are on the sea directly and with panoramic views overlooking the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Some of the places are the “Petite café”, the “Bay Rock Café”, the “Grand café “ and “Al Halab” .
If you walk away from the corniche, into the city there are many coffee shops, restaurants, food stands, and shops everywhere. Some of the best food stands or small restaurants are places like Al Barbar restaurants , they have one of the best shawarma and falafel and other lebanese food. Few blocks down the road there is the Amal Al Bohsali Pastry, having one of the best Kunafa and Atayef in addition to all types of Baklavas and icecreams.
There are more European and American style restaurants, they have all types of menus and a more modern twist on Lebanese food. There are many restaurants around the city, some offer all types of exotic hookahs. one of these restaurants is “Place de l’Etoile”, in Solidere development, next to the famous Clock tower in Al Nejmeh circle “Sahat Al Nijmaeh”. Some of the development is exclusively pedestrian area, with many exposed ruins of the ancient Phoenician ruins. Also, another nice French restaurant and pastry place is “Paul”, located on the Gouraud Street, a historic must-see street close to the port “Al Marfaa”.
In Beirut there is also the National Museum of Beirut, and Sursock Museum, used to be the Sourock family house (it is located where my grandfather used to say was Souk Sursock, dated back to 1920, all that area was destroyed during the civil war and was built by the Solidere development company).
Beirut and Lebanon in general is famous for its nightlife, there are many high-class nightclubs and pubs all over Beirut and especially on AlHambra street and Mono Street in al Ashrafiya next door. There are clubs with mideleastral stype food, music, and shows, while others are westerns tyle, with westren food, and music and shows.
Jubail
Jubail is the local name for Byblos, one of the oldest continuously lived cities in the region next to Jericho in Jerusalem. It has been continuously occupied for more than 5000 years. Byblos, is famous for its small fishing port and the old town and some old churches and mosques inside the old city. It is around 45 Km north of Beirut and can be reached by bus or car driving north along the main freeway called “Autostrad”.
There are many old and nice seafood restaurants overlooking the small port full of fishermen in their small fishing boats or some touring boats.
There is a small road with steep elevation from the port to the old city passing through the restaurants, and some gift shops. There is also a small old church on the right-hand side of the road, then after a few hundred feet the road branches out into small roads with many gift shops, cafés, and restaurants.
Jounieh
On the way to Jubail, the same “Autostrad ” passes through two major cities which are the jewel of Kisrwan province. During the 15 years Civil war, the Christian militias and political party held Keserwan province as a strong hold while Beirut with the main airport and the Beirut port was a strong hold for the opposing militias.
At that time Christians used part of the Autostrad as an airport and used Jounieh fishing port as a port to receive supplies and munitions. From that day Jounieh and the close by Keslik became a very important economical center, something like California’s Beverly Hills and Rodeo drive. After the war it kept its glamour position to an extent. There is also a third city called Maamalatain which is another center for nightclubs.
Jounieh still has its beautiful narrow and terribly busy roads, its market where the pubs and restaurants fronts on both sides of the road almost touch the cars with people sitting on the sidewalks. The restaurants, bars and pubs look like holes in a wall from outside, but inside they have unbelievably beautiful vibe.
The other main place in Jounieh on Tabarja highway, is the famous “Casino Du Liban” (Lebanon Casino) which is one of the main sources of income to Lebanon being almost the only Casino in the region. Before the civil war, people from Cyprus used to spend weekends in Lebanon specifically in the casino and take the early morning ferry back to Nicosia on Monday.
Zouq Mkayel
Zouq Mkayel is another city on the road to Jubail going uphill into the mountains. It has its old town where many famous outdoor events and festivals are held. It has many small and beautiful restaurants with live music, dancing. These restaurants here are usually old brick houses converted into shops and restaurants, leaving the authentic look of old brick domes and very thick walls.
Harissa – “Our Lady of Lebanon” Cathedral
I cannot talk about Lebanon without talking about Harissa, it is a beautiful place to visit, and whenever I am in Lebanon I visit Harissa church. People from all sects and religions come to visit this beautiful place, with its unbelievable weather, fresh air and the view as the sun sets behind the Mediterranean sea.
Harissa is not only important due to its historic significance, but the old church and the relatively new basilica built next to it architectural, and structural beauty in addition to its unbelievable beautiful location. There is a well paved road to Harissa, with steep inclination. The road paces through many small cafe type restaurants on the way and they are must visit due to their great food, value and the view.
Harissa can be reached by driving, bus, taxi and also cable cart form jounieh. i have never been in this cable cart but it is available and many who don’t have the means to drive, take the cablecard.
Jeita Grotto “Magahrat al Jeita”
The Jeita Grotto is a system of two separate, but interconnected, limestone caves Upper Grotto, Lower Grotto and it spans 6 miles in length. The way to the cave is by cable carts only (as per my knowledge), there is an entrance fee. Outside the grotto there are a restaurant, a coffee shop, a mini train for kids, a small garden with sculptures and souvenir shop.
The caves are situated in the Nahr al-Kalb valley (Al Kalb River) within the locality of Jeita. Its name means “roaring water”. The upper portion of the cave is a well built walking way through the stalactites and stalagmites (created due to millions of years of calcium and other minerals in the water dropping a drop at a time). The walkway is well lit with lights and spotlights and has security fences and places to look down to the lower portion of the cave.
The lower part of the cave can be accessed by boat only. In some seasons this part of the cave is closed due to rising water levels which makes entering the cave impossible and unsafe. Cameras and videos and cellphones are not allowed in the upper and the lower grotto. The only pictures inside should be bought.
Lebanese Food and Sweets
I love going to Lebanon not only for its beautiful places to visit, and the extremely sweet people, but mainly because of the food. Lebanon has one of the best foods in the region in my opinion.
I love the Lebanese mezza, which resembles the Spanish or south american Tapas. Small plates with different foods are usually eaten while drinking the local Arak. Arak is a distilled alcoholic drink from grapes, drank diluted with water (one part Arak to 2 parts water) and topped with ice and usually prepared in a big jagg to keep the consistency of the concentration, and drank in small cups.
Of course, the Humus is the kind of tapas which is very famous all around the world. In Lebanon there is the plain Humus with the olive oil, but also there is Humus with Balila (with full chickpeas) or with kawarma (minced grilled meat), or with shawarma. There are many other types of mazzas, like the pickles, warak Inab, the Foul el mudamas (the fava beans the Lebanese way), the BabaGhanouj (the eggplant dip like hummus). In addition to all types of Kubas which come in many forms and shapes. Also, the Sambusaks, with meat, or cheese and comes in triangular shapes and the Bourak comes in cylindrical shapes, each has a bit different taste.
Most people already know the Kabob (or Kabab, the minced meat or chicken grilled on a stick) or the Shikaf (the chunk of meat or chicken grilled on a stick), and the Shawerma. But many do not know the other famous raw meat dishes, which are eaten totally raw. There is raw fat (liya neya), raw liver (kibda neya), and Kuba Neya which is my favorite. These raw foods usually come with raw garlic sauce called Toum, some call it garlic mayonnaise), raw onion, and red chili pepper or cayenne pepper.
Lebanon has the best sweet menu ever. There is the “Kunafa”, “Atayf, or Qatayf”, “Halawet Jeben”, “Maamoul” and baklavas, to count a few. Also, they have all types of ice-creams (called Booza), but my favorite is the Lebanese ice-cream, which is milk ice-cream with Ashta, and Mistic gums, and sprinkled or dipped in grinned pistachio.
Beside the Lebanese coffee, the tea with mint, the is the Meti, and zaatar which are prepared like tea. of course
Conclusion
Lebanon is full of history and places to go; this post is just a very short post of only a few places from hundreds of other places. Lebanon is also full of nature, waterfalls, party places, hiking places, and my absolute favorite enjoyment is the authentic Lebanese food.
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