Your Best Armenia Travel Guide
Armenia is in the South Caucasus region of Asia bordering Europe. It is a landlocked country, surrounded by Turkey from the west, Azerbaijan from the east, Georgia from the North, and Iran from the south.
There is a small Azerbaijan territory called Nakhichevan border Armenia from the southwest, although it is an Azerbaijani territory, it is separated from Azerbaijan by Armenia. In return, there is Nagorno-Karabakh which is in Azerbaijan but considered Armenia territory and there were many wars between the two countries over this area last decade and till today.
In this blog, I will only touch upon the places I visited outside Yerevan, which worth seeing due to its historic values, the stories behind these places, the architecture and structural beauty. In addition, Armenia has beautiful mountains and Lakes and great hiking trails, and I will touch upon some of these trails.
The Best Way to Move Around Armenia
Traveling around Yerevan and whole Armenia is easy, there are many choices depending where do you want to go.
Cars through phone applications
For travel around Yerevan or short distances, you can use mobile applications to order car. In Yerevan UBER or LyFt apps cannot work, however there are many other similar applications. The three applications I know of serving inside Armenia are:
- GG
- Yandex Taxi
- UTaxi
These applications work just like UBER, but the navigation might not be as accurate as in the US. Hence, it is normal for the driver to communicate with you via SMS or call and ask for exact description, or street intersections. In Armenia, like many other countries in the region, the cars might not be the exact car advertised, they might send a msg saying they are using different car, usually it is ok, but it is up to you to accept or reject and ask for another driver.
The default payment type is cash, but in most application you can pay by card through the application (I am not sure if UTaxi does accept cards), and there will be 2% card payment charge, which its typical in many other countries as well, on top of the 3% that your card charges if you don’t have one of the international card which don’t charge for overseas transactions.
In these applications, you have the option of pining the destination on the app, or you can change your mind and describe it later to the driver. The application will give you many choices depending on the type, model, and age of the car.
Taxi on call or picked on streets
In big cities you can find taxis on the streets and they are very safe. However, in some remote areas, or too early or too late rides, it is more convenient to call in a taxi. The phone number for companies operate these taxis can be found everywhere.
Most taxies have meters, but it is always good practice to bargain before getting in the taxi or ask the meter to be used.
The taxi fares are normally as follows: 600 AMD ($1.5) for 5 kilometers (3 Miles) and an additional 100 AMD rate per each kilometer after that ($0.4 per mile). (I am using 400 AMD per dollar exchange rate; this can vary depending on that day’s exchange rate)
Rent a car
Driving license
Also, you can rent a car for $15 to $60 / day. There is a big price range depending on the type, age and size of the car. I was able to find a car through a local person who was renting his car, and it cost me very less. However, if you will rent from an international car renting company or through a travel agency, it might cost more.
However, you might need “international licenses” issued in your home country. In the US, I have subscription with “AAA” and it was half hour process and small fee to obtain an international driving license.
Car Insurance
The other helpful thing I learned is to have an international car insurance, I made one through my American Express which offer this type of service. There are many other credit cards offer the same type of service, Sapphire Chase card for example is another card I know they do offer international services.
What this service does, is it covers you and your car and third party for a fixed fee, so you don’t need to go through the expensive local insurance rates (this is true in all other countries as well).
Is it easy to drive in Armenia?
Cars in Armenia drive on the right side, just like in the US and most European countries. Driving is not that hard in Armenia, but it can be challenging if you are driving manual (stick shift) in some of the mountainous areas, also at winter it might snow and rain heavily, which might create issues for drivers like me who seldom drive under heavy rain or snow conditions.
Rent car with Driver
If you do not want to go through the hassle of renting a car, the other popular option is to rent a car with a driver. Based on your agreement with the driver, the type and size of the car, the rate may vary between $75 to $150 per day for 4 to 6 passengers.
Where to find cars with drivers
You can find them advertised on local online search engines, Facebook advertisements, local friend referrals, hotel receptions. If all that is not your thing, you can visit any tourist agency, or simply ask one of the taxi drivers. Many times, taxi drivers will agree to be paid per day flat rate, and some will ask you get paid flat rate plus the fuel fees.
What to look for in the driver
There are some drivers with better linguistic capabilities (English, French, German, ..etc.) and better understanding of the local history or with special knowledge of the hiking trails or mountain climbing locations, can offer privet guide services.
For these types of services, the rates can range between $100 to $200 per day depending on type and size of the car and destination.
Individual or group tours
In my case, during my second visit, while visiting some remote locations, I did not want to drive long distances and needed a more historic information. I just picked group tour every other day because some tours are more than 11 hours and I needed one day to rest before going to the next tour.
Is it worth to take group tours?
One thing I noticed, the prices of these group tours are reasonable, the busses move exactly on time, minimum or no delay from advertised schedule, but the length of the trip is usually longer than advertised.
The busses were extremely comfortable, the tour guide usually speak good English, and they are knowledgeable, and very friendly. The busses were safe, I never lost anything in the bus (camera, cell phone …etc).
How to find a proper tour
There are many tour organizers in Yerevan and to find one, you can ask the hotel reception, taxi drivers, or online search. I used only one touring agency, which I found from Google Map, Hyur services. I used them for all my tours, they offer other services but didn’t use them.
Places I Visited
The below is a map with the places I visited, I put them on a map to help you visualize the distances and locations.
From the many places to visit, in this blog, I picked the hiking places which Armenia famous for and some of the most historic places in Armenia.
Hiking Trails in Armenia
Armenia is a landlock, and most of its land in a mountainous area. The nature and the topography make Armenia a Hiking paradise.
Most hiking trails are reasonably marked, and there are many local English-speaking guides you could hire if you chose to do so. You can find guides on social media, or local tourist offices, Hotel receptions, or local search engines. The cost can vary start as low as $120 per day and up, including the transportation from Yerevan to these hiking locations and back.
The below are some of the hiking trails that I know.
Haghartsin trail
Starts at village of Dilijan to Monastery Haghartsin, around 12 Km (7.5 miles), moderate trail, with around 850 meters (2800 feet) ascent, then sharp 700 meters (2,300 feet) descent. You have also the option of taking taxi back to Dilijan which can cost $6 to $10.
Haghpat and Sanahin trail
Starts at Haghpat Monastery (UNESCO Historic Site) to Sanahin Monastery (another beautiful UNESCO Historic site) passing through Kayan Fortress. The trail is 8 Km (5 miles), moderate trail, with around 280 meters (925 feet) descent and sharp 300 meters (1000 feet) ascent.
Garni trail
Starts at Garni Temple (see below for more details on how to reach Garni) to Havuts Dar Monestry. It is an easy trail, 5 Km (3 miles), easy, with 250 meters (850 feet) ascent and descent.
Kegham Mountain trail
A 110 Km (70 miles), difficult trail (guide is recommended), with 2100 meters (6900 feet) ascent and 2500 meters (8250 feet) decent. Starts at Orbelian Caravanserai landmark which was built in 1330s to accommodate travelers in their journey. The start location is 2-hour drive (90 miles) south east of Yerevan and the trail ends at the very North of Sevan Lake (1-hour drive to Yerevan, 40 Miles). The trails peaks at 3500 meters (11,500 Feet) elevation around mid-way with 2100 meters (7000 feet) ascent and 2500 meters (8250 feet) descent.
Tatev trail
Starts and ends from Tatev, passing through Sadanayi or Devil’s bridge, it is around 9 miles, easy trail.
There are more than 100 trails, most can be find in local tourist shops or adds in some hotel receptions, also there is online sources such as Hikearmenia that can help.
Historic places to visit in Armenia
The Temple of Garni (Garni Dagar)
The temple of Garni is the only Roman Structure standing in Armenia. It is located almost 20 Miles (30 Km) south East of Yerevan, in village of Garni. It is one of very few pre-Christian symbols in Armenia.
Gerni Temple
It was built around the 1st century AD; some say it was built to worship the Sun god “Mihr”, while others, claim it was built as a royal tomb. It was said that the Roman emperor Nero sent to the Armenian monarch (Tirtad the first) roman craftsman, and gold as gift to help build the city of Garni as a fortified city and the temple in the center of the city.
During the Tirtad the third, Armenia became a Christian country and all pagan temples were destroyed, with exception of Garni temple, the king’s sister’s claimed the palace as her residence (some say the sister did that to protect the temple from destruction).
The temple collapsed during 1969 earthquake and rebuilt between 1969 and 1975 using the same original materials of the temple on site to keep its authenticity as much as possible and became one of the most visited sites in Armenia.
Gerni main Roman Style Temple
During my visit to the temple, I found inside the main Structure, a small group of women singing old Armenian songs wearing Armenian costumes. I was told that this is a daily attraction for the tourist to listen to some music and take pictures. (by the way, the Pomegranate on the clothing is because Pomegranate is an Armenia symbol)
There is also a hiking trail starts at Garni and ends at Havuts Dar Monestry 5 Km away (see above for details).
How to Get to Garni
To reach to Garni, you can rent a car with driver for about $30 to $40 for 3 to 4 people in a car. Also, you can take a group tour, like I did, which costed me around $50 per person for the tour to Garni and Geghard. There are also privet tours that the cost can range anything between $150 and $200 and they are good for up to 5 people. Of course, all these prices are budgetary prices subject to change.
Khor Virab
Khor Virab has an interesting story. Now the sacred place, was the horrible dungeon and the source of fear in Armenian in old times.
Khor Virab, or Virab Nerkeen, translates as “Deep Dungeon”, is a location few miles south of city of Garni, 30 Miles (45 Km) south of Yerevan. It is a sacred and legendary place in the Armenian culture. The story goes that Saint Gregory the illuminator (the founder of the Christian Armenian state in 301 and the builder of Armenia Etchmiadzin church) started his sainthood from this dungeon where he was sent for 13 years by king Tirtad III.
The king punished Saint Gregory for preaching Christianity in Armenia and against the traditional Gods at the time. Khor Virab, from the name “deep dungeon” was a place where people go and never get out, it was the worst punishment, slow and painful death by hunger, or diseases.
It was said that the survival of St. Gregory 13 years by itself, was a miracle. The same king put him in that dungeon suffered a horrible sickness which no one was able to cure him. One day a vision came to the King’s sister to free Saint Gregory and he will be the one who will cure her brother the King. He was released, cured the King and he was recognized as Saint Gregory the illuminator.
What to see in Khor Virab
In the year 642 CE (AD), the Khor Virab monastery was created on top of the “Virab Nerkeen” dungeon. Set upon a chain of hills in the Ararat Plain in Armenia’s Ararat Province. The site consists of the Saint Kevork Chapel, the Saint Astvatsatsin Chapel (Saint Mary), a courtyard for people to gather, and fortified walls. The monastery has spectacular views of Mount Ararat (located in present day Turkey few miles from the Armenian boarder) and the Aras River which it the boundary between Armenia and Turkey.
The site was hit by 1679 earthquake but continued to be a cultural interest and important part for the Armenian history.
How to get to Khor Virab from Yerevan.
There are many tours that take you to Khor Virab and ancient city of “Dvin” (10 miles, 16 Km to the north). The tour I took was around $90 per person half day tour.
You also can rent a taxi which will cost almost $30 to $40.
Or, there is a Ararat bound bus $1.25 (500 AMD in local money) that leaves 3 times a day from the bus station next to “Sasuntsi Tavit” Metro Station in Yerevan, to “Pokr Vedi” (meaning “Small Vedi”) which is a walking distance from the monastery, just talk to the driver of the bus and he/she can notify you when the bus reaches that destination.
Ghegam Ridge (Mt. Azhdahak)
If you love nature and mountains this place is a must go. The “Ghegam Ridge”, located 20 miles (30 Km) to the west of the capital city of Yerevan midway to Lake Sevan, it is a perfect place for hiking, nature and outdoor lovers, it contains a broad concentration of lava domes the highest point is called Mt. Azhdahak at an altitude of around 11,750 feet (around 3,900 meters) above sea level. It is considered dormant volcanic site, with no recent volcanic activities.
Ghegam Ridge
Is “Ghegam” the highest peak in Armenia?
Ghegam is extremely beautiful, however, it is not the highest peak in Armenia. The highest peak would be Mt. “Araqatz” 4,090 meters (13,500 feet) above sea level, and this is located to north west of Yerevan, you can reach it only by foot after certain point.
Geghard
There are three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Armenia, the first is Etchmiadzin which was described in detail in my previous Blog. The second is Monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin on the very north of Armenia – Lori Region. The third UNESCO World Heritage Sites is Monastery of Gerhard or locally known as “Gerhardavank”.
Geghard Monastery – UNESCO World Heritage site
The small unseen church carved in the mountain
The complex was founded during the 4th century as a small church entirely carved in the mountain at a site of a sacred spring. This monetary was initially called Ayrivank meaning the “Monastery of the cave”. The small old church looks like a hole in the ground from outside.
The above ground bigger church
The small church, later was expanded, and the newer bigger church was built on the ground level, to be visible to public and now the two churches are commonly known as “Gerhardavank”. The name Geghard means “spear” in Armenian, and the church was named spear, because allegedly the spear which wounded Jesus during crucifixion was brought to Armenia to this location by Apostle Jude and now stored among many other relics in Etchmiadzin.
The two church which is protected now by UNESCO was completed around 1215, are one of the most beautiful and challenging structures I have seen. The site around the monastery is breath taking and it is one of the must see placed. There are many tours to this location usually, bundled with Garni Temple site as well. It is also worth visiting by privet car to freely explore all the surrounding villages, Azat river, and the beautiful scenery.
Noravank Monastery (Arni)
“Noravank” means the “new monetary” in Armenian. Even if the name suggests “new” it is at least 750 years old structure. It was built in early 13th and 14th century 120 Km (80 miles) south of Yerevan 10 Km (6 miles) south of village of Arni. It can also be known to some as “Noravank” at ”Amaghu”, referring to the nearby abandoned village.
“Noravank” Monastery – Arni
Who built “Norvank” the city and the monastery?
The region was ruled by “Orbelian” Dynasty of Princes and they had Noravank their resident. The first church built was “Surp Karapet” church was built during Prince Liparit Orbelian and by Bishop Hovhannes.
The church was looted during 1238 Mongolian invasion. However, during Prince Elikum Orbelian rule, he made a truce with Agha Khan of Magnolia, which brought peace to the region and the region prospered and the church was rebuilt. In 1275, Surp Grigor the Baptist chapel was built with Prince Elikum tombstone next to the church which is carved with lion and human carvings.
What to search for in “Norvank” and who is “Momik”?
The city has many churches, However, Noravank is best known for its two tier, three story “surp Astvatsatsin” church (Saint Mary church) which was built in 1339. The church was built by the famous sculptor and architect “Momik”.
He was famous for his unique architectural style and khachkar carvings (crosses carved in stone which symbolized the cross as the bridge between earth and heaven). The surp Astvatsatsin church is famous for its cantilever stairs which was a new concept at the time and was one of Momik’s signature designs.
The Saint Mary church was built after the 1331 earthquake which left the other two churches heavily damaged. Momik contributed to renovating the two churches as he was building the Saint Mary church, that is why you can find Momik’s signature style on all three churches. There is a big courtyard also was destroyed by the earthquake and was rebuilt and became the graveyard of the Orbelian dynasty and have many of their tombstones.
Carahunge (Karahunj or Qarahunj), also known as Zorats Karer, or Carenish
Carahunge (translated as “sound of stones”) is a prehistoric archaeological site sometimes refer to “Armenian Stonehenge” it is located near the town of “Sisian”, 200 Km (120 miles) south east of Yerevan on the way to “Tativ”.
What is the story of the oldest shoe and winery?
There are many stories related to this site. It seems there were some caves close by, where the oldest shoe in the world and the oldest winery in recorded history were found. Also, in those caves, vessels full of old wine were found.
What is the story of “Carahunge”?
The site is around 7 hectares, 1770 meters above sea level, and estimated to be around 7500 years old. The site is called Carahunge because it contains more than 220 vertical monoliths stones, several tons each, and grouped in central cycle. The 84 of them has 4 to 5 cm (2 inch) diameter holes on the top of the stone and each directed to a specific direction to observe the sun, the moon, or other objects in the sky. The theory is that this area was an observatory. If this theory is correct, Carahunge will qualify as the oldest observatory discovered yet.
Carahunge – 2” diameter man made holes for observation by “Sky People”
There is also another theory suggests that the place was a worshiping place dedicated to the Sun god “AR” that was the main God of Armenians before Christianity. Of course, there are more stories and explanations that you might hear from the tour guide. whatever the story is, it remains one of the most interesting places to visit and see.
What is “AR” and what is “Mihr”?
In the Armenian Mythology, AR (Arev means sun in Armenian) is the Father Sun (not to be confused with Ra the Egyptian god) and Haya is the Mother goddess, and from them the Armenians were created (Armenia in Armenian is called Hayastan). The name of the sun god changed due to Persian and other surrounding cultures influence. “Mihr”, mentioned above in Gani’s story, was one of the names given to the Sun god due to influence by the Persian cultures, due to trade or wars.
Tatevi Mets Anapat
It means the “Great Hermitage of Tatev”. It is a monastery situated high on the “Vorotan” gorge 850 meters deep (2800 feet), which is the biggest gorge in Armenia. The building is dated 1611 to 1613 CE (AD). The main structure is the Saint Mary Mother of God church. The complex is around 250 km (150 miles) to the south of Yerevan.
Tatevi Mets Anapat
Beside the church complex, the place is famous for two other things.
- The first is the Tatev hiking trail, which starts from the complex area and passes through many other locations and then to the Devils bridge at the furthest north and then loops back to the complex. (see above for more details about this and other trails).
- The second big highlight is the Wings of Tatev, which is locally known as “Tatevi Tever”. It is the longest reversible Aerial tramway built in one section. The cable cars carry passengers between Halidzor to Tatev monetary and back. It holds the record of the longest non-stop double track cable car, by “Guinness book of records”. It was completed October 16th, 2010. This project was launched to reduce the travel time between the two point from 40 minutes to the average 12 minutes.
Some statistics about the cable car mentioned in Guinness book of records:
- Length: 5,750 m
- Maximum height: 320 m
- Maximum speed: 10 m/s
- Cabin capacity: 30 passengers and an attendant with capacity of 240 passengers / hour
- Manufacturer: collaboration between Austrian Doppelmayr and Swiss Garaventa Group
Tatevi Tever – Wings of Tatev (view from the Cable car)
How to get to Tatev
The best way to reach to Tatev is by group tours (this is what I did) and it was long 13-hour tours which had stops many places including lunch. It also includes the tickets to ride the cable car which is totally worth the 13-hour trip.
Final thoughts
Armenia is an incredibly old and ancient country and the home for one of the oldest civilizations. It was the first Christian country on earth. And the capital city Yerevan is one of the oldest cities continuously inhabited. Yerevan was established 782 BC, at the time was called Erebuni, that makes the city of Yerevan more than 2800 years old city.
Although it has old civilization, but it is relatively new republic. It took its independence from the former Soviet Union on September 21, 1991. Like most USSR countries, it took many years for the country to find its way to democracy and out of the socialist system into the new open market economy. The December 1988 earthquake and the war with Azerbaijan over Nagorno- Karabakh were huge burden on Armenian economy and it took long years to recover from both.
Armenia after this hard past, is developed to become a tourist friendly, a beautiful, and a peaceful country. I visited the country many times since 2012, I love Yerevan, and I love the Armenian countryside and of course the Armenia food. In my opinion it is a place worth visiting and exploring.
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